MIVA STUDY PACK — Carpenter & Furniture Maker (English) Downloaded 2026-09-29. Free to pass on. Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 1: Carpentry work and where it is 7 minutes read WHAT A CARPENTER DOES Carpentry is one of the oldest and most useful trades in West Africa and across the world. Look around your home or your neighbourhood. The wooden roof holding up the metal sheets, the main entry door, the kitchen cabinets, the school desk, and the wardrobe in the bedroom all came from a carpenter. A carpenter takes raw timber or manufactured boards and measures, cuts, shapes, and joins them together to build useful objects and structures. Some carpenters focus on big construction projects on building sites, while others focus on detailed furniture making inside a workshop. THE MAIN AREAS OF CARPENTRY WORK As a carpenter, you can work in several areas depending on your skills and interests. Many craftsmen learn a bit of everything, while others specialize in one branch. - Formwork and site carpentry: Building temporary wooden frames (boxing) to hold wet concrete for pillars, beams, and suspended floors. - Roofing and trusses: Planning, cutting, and joining heavy timber rafters to support roofing sheets on houses, churches, and shops. - Doors and windows: Framing and hanging solid wooden doors, installing locks, hinges, and wooden window shutters. - Cabinetry and kitchen fittings: Building fitted wardrobes, kitchen wall units, shelves, and office desks using plywood or MDF boards. - Furniture making: Crafting dining tables, beds, chairs, and sofa frames from solid hardwoods like Iroko, Mahogany, or Teak. [Try this today] Take a walk through your local market or down your street. Find three different wooden structures or furniture pieces. Can you tell if they were built for heavy structural use (like a roof or formwork) or for interior finish (like a cabinet or door)? WHERE CARPENTERS WORK Carpenters work in different environments depending on the job. Knowing these settings helps you understand what tools you need to carry and how your workday looks. 1. The Workshop: This is your base. It is usually a covered shed or shop space where you store big machines, stock lumber, and work on furniture. Customers visit you here to look at samples or discuss designs. 2. The Construction Site: When building roofs or doing formwork, you work outdoors directly on the building site. You need portable tools, safety gear, and the ability to work at heights or under the sun. 3. The Client's Home or Office: When installing kitchen cabinets, doors, or wardrobes, you work inside the customer's property. You must work neatly, cover floors, and clean up wood dust before leaving. GETTING JOBS AND MOVING AROUND In towns across Nigeria, Ghana, and Togo, carpenters get work through word of mouth, roadside workshop displays, and social media like WhatsApp or Instagram. Customers like to see clear photos of finished jobs. Moving finished work is also part of the trade. You will often arrange transport using a motor tricycle (keke, pragya, or aboboyaa) or a light truck to move timber from the timber market or deliver a heavy wardrobe to a buyer. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. What is the main purpose of formwork carpentry on a building site? A) To build indoor dining tables and chairs for clients B) To create temporary wooden moulds that hold wet concrete in place C) To sand down wooden doors before applying polish D) To install door locks and window handles Answer: B — Formwork carpentry involves creating temporary wooden frames or moulds to hold wet concrete until it hardens into pillars, beams, or slabs. 2. Which area of carpentry focuses mostly on items like wardrobes, kitchen units, and office desks? A) Roofing trusses B) Formwork C) Cabinetry D) Scaffolding Answer: C — Cabinetry focuses on building indoor storage units, fitted wardrobes, kitchen cabinets, and office furniture. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 2: Safety with blades and power tools 8 minutes read WHY SAFETY COMES FIRST Carpentry is a rewarding trade, but it involves working with sharp hand blades, heavy timber, and fast-spinning power tools. A moment of distraction can lead to deep cuts, eye injuries, or lost fingers. Safety is not about working slowly; it is about working correctly so you can earn a living for years without injury. Every skilled carpenter respects their tools. Whether you are using a simple wood chisel or an electric circular saw, safety habits must become second nature. [Safety Warning: Protect your limbs and eyes] Never operate power saws without blade guards in place. Always wear safety glasses when cutting or sanding wood. Flying wood chips or a snapped blade can cause permanent blindness in less than a second. PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (PPE) Before you pick up any tool or turn on a machine, make sure you are wearing the right protective clothing. Basic safety gear is inexpensive compared to the cost of a hospital visit. - Safety Goggles: Protect your eyes from flying dust, splinters, and broken nails. - Dust Mask or Respirator: Keeps fine wood dust and chemical fumes (from glue or varnish) out of your lungs. - Ear Protectors: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from loud machines like circular saws and planers. - Work Boots: Thick soles and hard toes protect your feet from dropped timber, falling tools, and sharp nails on the workshop floor. - Fit Clothing: Avoid loose shirts, dangling cords, or long jewellery. They can quickly get caught in moving blades or drill bits. WORKING SAFELY WITH HAND TOOLS Hand tools like chisels, hand saws, and block planes may not use electricity, but they still have razor-sharp edges that can cause deep cuts. Always keep your blades sharp. A dull chisel requires you to push with extra force. If it slips, it can jump and cut your hand. A sharp chisel cuts smoothly with less force and stays under control. When using a chisel or utility knife, always keep both hands behind the cutting edge. Never hold the piece of wood with one hand directly in front of a blade moving toward it. POWER TOOL SAFETY RULES Power tools like circular saws, electric planers, routers, and drills make work much faster, but they turn at thousands of revolutions per minute. Follow these core rules: - Unplug before changing blades: Always disconnect the power cable or remove the battery before changing a blade, bit, or cutter. Never rely on the power switch alone. - Check for nails: Inspect used wood or reclaimed timber for hidden nails or screws before cutting. Hitting a nail with a fast circular saw can shatter the blade or cause dangerous kickback. - Beware of kickback: Kickback happens when a saw blade gets pinched in the cut and throws the tool or wood violently back toward you. Stand to the side of the cut line, not directly behind it. - Wait for full stop: Let the machine come to a complete stop before setting it down on your workbench. [Try this today] Inspect your current workspace or toolkit. Check one hand tool (like a chisel or hand saw) to see if the handle is firm and the blade is sharp. Clean up any loose power cords or wood offcuts tripping hazards on the floor. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Why is a dull wood chisel actually more dangerous than a sharp one? A) A dull chisel is heavier and harder to pick up B) A dull chisel requires more force to push, making it much more likely to slip out of control C) A dull chisel makes too much noise when hitting wood D) A dull chisel cuts deep into wood too quickly Answer: B — Dull tools require extra pushing force. This extra force makes the tool harder to control, increasing the risk of it slipping and causing a severe cut. 2. What is the very first thing you must do before changing the blade on a circular saw? A) Turn the power switch to ON B) Unplug the power cord from the socket or remove the battery C) Oil the saw blade D) Wipe dust off the handle Answer: B — Always disconnect the power source (unplug or remove battery) before touching blades or bits so the tool cannot turn on accidentally. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 3: Wood, plywood and board 8 minutes read SOLID WOOD AND ENGINEERED BOARD When you step into a timber market in Accra, Lagos, or Lomé, you will see two main categories of wood products. The first is solid wood cut straight from logs. The second is manufactured board, which is made by combining wood fibres, chips, or thin layers with glue. A skilled carpenter needs to know when to use solid timber and when to use engineered boards. Solid timber is divided into softwoods and hardwoods. Softwood comes from fast-growing trees like pine. In West Africa, imported white wood (often called pine or white board) is common on building sites. It is easy to cut and nail, making it popular for concrete formwork, roof battens, and temporary supports. Hardwood comes from slower-growing trees. Examples found across West Africa include Iroko, Mahogany, Mansonia, Teak, and Obeche. Hardwood is heavy, strong, and durable. It resists scratches and holds screws tightly. It is ideal for high-end furniture, main doors, and roof rafters that must bear heavy iron sheets or tiles. - Softwood (White wood): Light, soft, cheaper, great for roofing battens and construction framing. - Hardwood (Iroko, Mahogany, Teak): Heavy, strong, expensive, great for dining tables, outer doors, and durable furniture. UNDERSTANDING ENGINEERED BOARDS Solid wood is beautiful, but wide solid planks are expensive and can warp or twist when the weather changes. Engineered boards solve this problem by providing large, flat sheets at a lower cost. - Plywood: Made from thin sheets of wood (veneers) glued together in layers. Each layer runs at a 90-degree angle to the next. This cross-grain design makes plywood strong and resistant to cracking or warping. High-grade WBP (Water and Boil Proof) plywood uses waterproof glue for kitchen cabinets and outdoor shuttering. - MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard): Made by breaking down wood waste into fine fibers, mixing it with glue, and pressing it into smooth sheets under high heat. MDF has no wood grain, so you can cut it in any direction without splitting. It takes paint smoothly and is widely used for modern wardrobe doors and TV units. - Particle Board (Chipboard): Made from rough wood chips pressed together with glue. It is cheaper and lighter than MDF, but it is weaker and easily damaged by water. Melamine boards are particle boards coated with a decorative, colored plastic skin. WOOD MOISTURE AND THE WEST AFRICAN CLIMATE In regions with high humidity and heavy rain, moisture control is critical. Freshly felled wood contains a lot of water inside its cells. As wood dries, it shrinks. If you build a door with unseasoned wet timber, the wood will shrink after a few dry months in the Harmattan season. The door will no longer close properly, or big gaps will open up between the joints. Always buy seasoned (dried) wood for furniture work. Storing timber flat on dry blocks off the dirt ground inside a covered shed helps keep it straight and ready for work. Insects like termites can destroy a cabinet or door within months if you do not take preventive action. Hardwoods like Teak and Iroko naturally resist termites better than softwoods. For softwood and plywood, you can apply chemical anti-termite treatments before sanding and finishing. [Protect your lungs from board dust] Cutting and sanding MDF and particle board creates very fine dust containing glue chemicals. Inhaling this dust irritates your lungs and can cause long-term health problems. Always wear a fitted dust mask (N95) and work in an open area with good airflow when cutting engineered boards. [Try this today] Visit a local timber market or neighborhood carpenter shop. Ask the carpenter to show you three materials: a piece of solid hardwood, a sheet of plywood, and a piece of MDF. Pick them up to feel their weight, look at the edges, and see how the layers or fibres differ. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Which type of manufactured board is built by gluing thin wood veneers at right angles to each other? A) MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) B) Plywood C) Particle board D) White softwood plank Answer: B — Plywood is constructed from multiple thin sheets of wood glued with alternating grain directions. This gives it exceptional strength and prevents warping. 2. Why is raw MDF unsuitable for damp places like outdoor sheds or wet kitchen floors? A) MDF breaks saw blades instantly B) MDF is too heavy to carry C) MDF absorbs water, swells up, and loses its structural strength D) MDF reflects sunlight and gets too hot Answer: C — Raw MDF is made from compressed fine wood fibres. When exposed to water or high moisture, it acts like a sponge, swelling up and falling apart. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 4: Measuring, marking and cutting 8 minutes read PRECISION MEASURING TOOLS Carpentry is a trade where small errors add up quickly. A single missing millimeter on three door frame parts can leave you with a door that refuses to close. Professional carpenters work by a golden rule: measure twice, cut once. To get accurate results, you need the right measuring and marking tools in your toolbox: - Steel Tape Measure: Use a 5-meter or 8-meter tape with a clear lock mechanism. Check the metal hook at the tip; it should move slightly. That small slide accounts for the hook's own thickness when taking inside or outside measurements. - Try Square: An L-shaped tool with a thick handle and a thin metal blade set at exactly 90 degrees. Use it to check square corners and draw straight lines across boards. - Marking Knife or Sharp Pencil: A dull carpenter's pencil draws lines that are 2mm wide. That width creates confusion when cutting. Keep your pencil sharp, or use a marking knife to score a paper-thin line directly into the wood grain. UNDERSTANDING THE SAW KERF When a saw blade cuts through a piece of wood, it does not just split the wood in half; it chews away a channel of material and turns it into sawdust. The width of this missing slot is called the saw kerf. A standard handsaw has a kerf of around 1.5mm to 2mm. A circular saw blade often has a kerf of 3mm. If you measure a board to 500mm and cut directly down the center of your marked line, your finished piece will be around 498.5mm long because the blade ate away part of your measured piece. To keep your exact dimension, always place the edge of the saw blade on the waste side of your line. The waste side is the piece of wood you will throw away or use for scrap. MAKING CLEAN CUTS WITH HAND AND POWER SAWS Cutting wood cleanly takes technique and control rather than raw physical force. When using a hand panel saw: - Place the board firmly on a sturdy workbench or saw trestle. - Guide the start of the cut using your left thumb knuckle against the blade (if right-handed). Pull the saw backward gently two or three times to form a shallow groove. - Hold the saw at a 45-degree angle to the surface of the wood. Use long, smooth strokes utilizing the full length of the blade. - As you reach the end of the cut, support the falling waste piece with your free hand so it does not snap under its own weight and tear the wood fibers. When using a circular saw, set the blade depth so it extends only 3mm to 5mm below the bottom face of your board. Clamp a straight guide board to your workpiece so the circular saw shoe can glide smoothly along it without drifting off course. [Power saw safety: avoid kickback] A circular saw blade spins at high speed. If the wood pinches the blade during a cut, or if you twist the saw mid-cut, the tool can suddenly kick back toward your body with dangerous force. Always keep both hands on the saw handles, wear safety glasses, and never stand directly behind the line of cut. [Try this today] Take a piece of scrap wood and a measuring tape. Mark two lengths of 200mm side by side using a sharp pencil and a try square. Cut the first mark straight down the center of the pencil line. Cut the second mark on the waste side of the line. Measure both finished pieces with your tape to see the difference caused by the kerf. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. What does the term 'saw kerf' refer to in woodworking? A) The total height of the saw blade B) The width of material removed by the saw blade during a cut C) The angle of the saw handle D) The wooden block used to support a workpiece Answer: B — The saw kerf is the slot cut out by the teeth of a blade. Because material is destroyed turning into sawdust, you must account for this 2mm-3mm width when measuring. 2. Where should your saw blade sit relative to your pencil mark to preserve your exact measurement? A) Directly down the middle of the pencil mark B) On the exact side of your useful workpiece C) On the waste side of the pencil line D) 5cm away from the pencil mark Answer: C — Cutting on the waste side ensures that the kerf removes wood from the piece you do not need, leaving your measured piece at the exact length you planned. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 5: Strong joints 7 minutes read WHY WOOD JOINTS MATTER If you only drive nails into the end of two boards, the joint will wobble and pull apart over time. Good joints give your furniture the strength to carry heavy loads, like a wardrobe packed with clothes or a market bench in Accra carrying three adults. FOUR COMMON CARPENTRY JOINTS Different jobs call for different joints. Here are four common styles used in West African woodworking workshops: - Butt joint: The simplest joint where two flat edges meet. It is weak on its own and needs screws, glue, dowels, or metal brackets for support. - Half-lap joint: Half the thickness of each board is removed so they overlap flat. This gives plenty of gluing surface and makes a strong, neat corner for tables and bed frames. - Mortise and tenon: The strongest joint for solid wood frame furniture like dining chairs. A rectangular peg (tenon) on one piece fits tightly into a matching rectangular slot (mortise) cut into another piece. - Pocket hole joint: A screw is driven at a sharp angle through a hidden hole into the adjoining board. It is fast to assemble and very popular for kitchen cabinets made of plywood or MDF board. [Chisel Safety] Chisels are extremely sharp and cause many workshop injuries. Always chisel away from your body and keep both hands behind the sharp cutting edge. Clamp your timber firmly to the workbench so it does not slip while cutting a mortise. THE POWER OF WOOD GLUE AND CLAMPS Wood glue creates a bond stronger than the wood itself, but only if you apply it properly. Wipe away sawdust before applying PVA wood glue evenly across both joint surfaces. Clamping is not optional. Without clamps, glue leaves tiny air pockets and the joint fails. Tighten G-clamps or bar clamps until a thin line of glue squeezes out along the joint. Leave clamps on for at least two hours so the glue cures tightly. [Try this today] Find two small scrap pieces of softwood or plywood in a workshop. Saw a simple half-lap joint on their ends using a hand saw and chisel. Apply glue, clamp them together tight, and let them dry overnight to test how strong the bond is. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Which wood joint is considered the strongest for solid wood chair legs and rail frames? A) Unreinforced butt joint B) Mortise and tenon joint C) Plastic bracket joint D) Simple overlapping edge joint Answer: B — The mortise and tenon joint interlocks wood pieces tightly and provides deep surface area for glue, making it ideal for high-stress frames like chairs. 2. Why must you clamp a glued joint tightly while it dries? A) To bend the wood into a curved shape B) To stop the wood from changing color C) To force out air gaps and hold surfaces in direct contact D) To soften the wood fibers so nails go in easier Answer: C — Clamping pushes out air pockets and squeezes wood fibers close together so PVA glue can form a deep, solid bond. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 6: Roofing and doors 8 minutes read WOOD FRAMEWORKS FOR ROOFS A wooden roof frame must carry its own weight, heavy zinc or aluminum roofing sheets, and resist strong wind squalls during the rainy season. Roof trusses transfer all these loads safely down to the concrete block walls. KEY PARTS OF A WOODEN ROOF Understanding standard timber names helps you order wood correctly and talk professionally with site owners: - Wall plate: A flat 2x4 or 3x4 timber anchored onto the top of the block wall to spread the roof load. - Rafters: Slanted timbers that determine the slope (pitch) of the roof so rainwater drains fast. - Tie beam: Horizontal timber connecting opposite rafters at the bottom. It stops outward pressure from pushing block walls apart. - Purlins (reapers): Long horizontal wooden strips nailed across rafters. Roof sheets are screwed or nailed directly into purlins. [Roof Safety] Working high above the ground brings serious fall risks. Never walk on wet roof timbers. Tie ladders securely to the building framework, wear non-slip shoes, and use safety ropes or harnesses when setting high rafters. CONSTRUCTING AND SETTING DOOR FRAMES A wooden door frame has two vertical posts (jambs) and one top horizontal piece (head). If your frame is out of square or twisted, the door will stick, scrape the floor, or fail to latch shut. To check if a door frame is square, measure diagonally from top-left corner to bottom-right corner, then top-right corner to bottom-left corner. If both diagonal distances match down to the millimeter, your frame is perfectly square. HANGING PANEL AND FLUSH DOORS Before hanging a door, trim its edges so there is a consistent 3mm gap around all sides. Cut clean mortise recesses on the door edge so hinge leaves sit flush with the wood surface. Screw the top hinge first to hold the door weight, then attach the bottom and middle hinges. Test that the door swings smoothly without binding against the frame. [Try this today] Find a completed door frame at home or on a job site. Take a long measuring tape and measure diagonally from corner to corner in an 'X' shape. Check if both measurements are equal to confirm whether the frame was set square. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. How can a carpenter verify that a rectangular door frame is completely square? A) By measuring only the height of both side jambs B) By measuring both diagonal distances to see if they are equal C) By looking at the frame from a distance D) By tapping the wood with a claw hammer Answer: B — When the two diagonal measurements across a rectangular frame match exactly, the corners are true 90-degree right angles. 2. What is the main purpose of roof purlins (reapers)? A) They hold glass windows in place B) They run horizontally across rafters to support roofing sheets C) They act as decorative trim inside bedrooms D) They connect concrete footings to block walls Answer: B — Purlins are fixed across the rafters to create a flat lattice where roofing sheets can be nailed or screwed down safely. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 7: Sanding, finishing and polish 8 minutes read PREPARING THE WOOD SURFACE A table can have perfect joints, but if the surface is rough or scratch marks show through the polish, the customer will not be happy. Sanding is the step that turns rough lumber into fine furniture. It removes saw marks, evens out flush joints, and prepares the wood to absorb finishes evenly. CHOOSING THE RIGHT SANDPAPER GRIT Sandpaper is classified by grit number. The lower the number, the rougher the paper. High numbers mean smooth, fine paper. Always start with a lower grit to flatten the surface, then move step-by-step to higher grits to smooth it out. - Coarse grit (60 to 80): Use this to remove rough saw marks, dried glue squeeze-out, or thick old paint. - Medium grit (100 to 150): Use this to smooth out the scratches left by coarse grit and to shape hard edges. - Fine grit (180 to 220): Use this right before applying stain or clear varnish to get a silky smooth feel. - Extra fine grit (320 and above): Use this lightly between coats of clear finish to remove tiny dust bumps. Always sand along the direction of the wood grain. If you sand across the grain, you will leave deep scratches that show up very badly once varnish or stain is applied. REPAIRING DEFECTS WITH WOOD FILLER Before your final sanding, check the wood for nail holes, small cracks, or minor gaps around joints. You can buy ready-made wood filler or make your own paste by mixing fine sawdust from the same wood with white PVA glue. Press the filler deep into the hole using a putty knife. Let it dry completely, then sand it level with the surface using 180-grit sandpaper. [Protect your lungs and eyes] Sanding produces very fine dust that stays floating in the air. Breathing wood dust over time causes serious lung sickness. Chemical fumes from lacquers, stains, and clear varnishes are also toxic. Always wear a dust mask and protective glasses, and keep your workshop doors and windows open. STAINING, VARNISHING, AND POLISHING Finishing protects wood from moisture, insects, and dirt while showing off its natural grain pattern. There are three main steps in a complete finishing job: - Wood Stain: Adds color to light wood like white plywood or pine without hiding the grain underneath. - Varnish or Clear Coat: Forms a hard shield against water and scratches. Apply thin coats using a clean brush or lint-free cloth. - Wax or Polish: Gives a warm, rich shine and smooth feel after the clear coat has dried completely. When applying varnish, work in a clean area so floating dust does not settle on the wet surface. Apply two or three thin coats rather than one heavy coat. Lightly sand the surface with 320-grit paper between coats after each layer dries, then wipe away the dust before applying the next layer. [Try this today] Take a small scrap piece of hardwood like mahogany or teak. Divide it into three sections with a pencil. Sand section one with 80-grit paper only, section two with 80 then 120-grit, and section three with 80, 120, and 220-grit. Rub a drop of vegetable oil or varnish on all three sections and feel the difference in smoothness and shine. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Why should you always sand in the direction of the wood grain? A) It helps the wood dry out faster B) It prevents deep, ugly scratches on the wood surface C) It makes the sandpaper last twice as long D) It changes light wood into dark mahogany Answer: B — Sanding across the grain tears the wood fibers and creates deep scratches that become very visible under clear varnish or stain. Sanding along the grain smooths the fibers neatly. 2. What is the main reason for lightly sanding between coats of clear varnish? A) To strip off all the varnish you just applied B) To allow moisture to enter the wood fibers C) To remove tiny dust bumps and help the next coat stick D) To change the grit rating of your sandpaper Answer: C — Lightly sanding with fine paper (like 320-grit) knocks down dust particles caught in the wet coat and creates tiny grooves so the next layer of varnish sticks strongly. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 8: Pricing and winning jobs 9 minutes read UNDERSTANDING THE REAL COSTS OF A JOB Many carpenters make the mistake of looking at the cost of wood and adding a small amount for their personal spending. They forget about transport, saw blades, glue, electricity, and shop rent. If you do not calculate every cost, you will work hard for weeks and end up with no real profit. THE 5 KEY PARTS OF A PROJECT QUOTE To make sure your carpentry shop makes a steady profit, every written quote you give a customer should cover five main areas: - Raw Materials: Timber boards, plywood sheets, MDF, laminates, and edge banding. - Hardware & Consumables: Hinges, handles, drawer slides, screws, nails, wood glue, sandpaper, and polish. - Transport: The cost of transporting wood from the timber market to your shop, and delivering the finished piece by tro-tro or pick-up truck. - Labor & Time: Your daily living wage multiplied by the number of days the job will take to complete. - Overhead & Profit: An extra 15% to 20% to cover workshop rent, electricity, tool wear, and business savings. [Never buy materials without an advance deposit] Wood and hardware prices in local markets change quickly. Never use your own money or savings to buy materials for a customer's project. Always collect an upfront deposit of 50% to 60% before purchasing materials or starting work, and provide a signed paper receipt. HOW TO PRESENT QUOTES TO CUSTOMERS Customers prefer clear, honest pricing over cheap, sloppy promises. Give them a written breakdown showing material costs and labor instead of just calling out a single high figure. When a client understands why a solid wood door costs more than a hollow board door, they respect your knowledge and accept your price. USING PHOTOS AND SOCIAL MEDIA TO WIN JOBS Your smartphone is one of your most powerful tools for finding new clients in your city or town. - Take clear photos: Wipe your phone camera clean and take photos of finished furniture in bright, natural light before delivery. - Use WhatsApp status: Post short video clips showing smooth polished surfaces or neat, strong joints. - Keep a sample board: Show clients small pieces of wood with different finishes (wax, dark stain, clear varnish) so they can pick easily. - Ask for recommendations: When a client is happy with a completed wardrobe or table, respectfully ask them to share your contact with friends or neighbors. [Try this today] Calculate a full price quote for a simple 3-tier wooden shoe rack. List the cost of 1 sheet of board, screws, 1 tin of varnish, transport, 2 days of labor, and a 20% profit margin. Save this quote template on your phone so you can calculate quotes quickly when a client asks. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Why must you include an overhead and wear margin in your price quotes? A) To make the job take twice as long to finish B) To cover workshop rent, electricity, and tool replacement costs C) To hide the cost of wood from the customer D) To pay taxes directly to the timber market sellers Answer: B — Overhead covers running costs like workshop rent, power, and tool wear. Without this extra margin, you will have to pay for broken tools and shop rent out of your personal labor pay. 2. What is the safest rule to follow before purchasing materials for a client? A) Use your personal savings to buy all materials first B) Collect a 50% to 60% advance deposit from the client C) Deliver the finished furniture before asking for any payment D) Borrow money from friends to cover timber costs Answer: B — Collecting a 50% to 60% deposit protects your business from sudden price changes and ensures the client is serious before you spend money on wood and hardware. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 9: Build Your Professional Profile 10 min read OBJECTIVE: Set up a simple, honest professional presence online so employers and customers can find and trust you. Before someone hires you or buys from you, they often look you up. A professional profile is simply a clean, honest page that answers three questions: who are you, what can you do, and how can someone reach you? You do not need to be famous or have a computer. A phone and one good photo are enough to start. START WITH WHAT IS FREE - WhatsApp Business — free app. Add your trade, working hours, location and a short catalogue of your work or services. Many customers in West Africa will find you here first. - Google Business Profile — free. If you have a shop, workshop or stall, this puts you on Google Maps so people nearby can find you. - LinkedIn (free Basic account) — useful if you want office, NGO or company work. Add a clear photo, your trade or skill, and two or three lines about what you have done. - Local job and trade groups — Facebook and WhatsApp groups for your town or trade are where many real opportunities are shared first. You do not need all four on day one. Pick the one where your customers or employers actually are. A tailor or caterer may get more from WhatsApp Business and local groups; an IT support learner may need LinkedIn first. Add the others over time. WHAT MAKES A PROFILE TRUSTWORTHY - A real photo of you — face visible, plain background, neat clothing. No sunglasses, no filters. - Your real name, written the same way everywhere. - One honest sentence about what you do: 'I install and repair solar home systems in Hohoe.' - Proof: photos of finished work, a certificate, or a short quote from a happy customer. - A phone number or WhatsApp link that actually works. [Protect yourself] Never pay anyone who promises to 'verify' your profile or guarantee you a job for a fee. Real platforms like LinkedIn, WhatsApp Business and Google Business Profile are free to set up. Anyone asking for money to list you is likely a scammer. [Try this today] Write your one honest sentence — who you are and what you do — and save it in your notes. You will reuse it in every profile, CV and introduction from now on. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. Which of these is free to set up and puts your workshop on Google Maps? A) A paid business directory B) Google Business Profile C) A printed flyer D) A website you pay a developer for Answer: B — Google Business Profile is free and places your business on Google Maps and Search, so people nearby can find you. You only need a phone and your business details. 2. What is the most important quality of a professional profile photo? A) It was taken by a professional photographer B) It uses an attractive filter C) Your face is clearly visible and you look neat D) It shows you with expensive items Answer: C — Employers and customers want to see a real, trustworthy person. A clear, neat photo with a plain background builds more trust than any filter or expensive backdrop. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 10: Write Your Goals and Plan for Obstacles 10 min read OBJECTIVE: Turn a wish into a written goal, review it weekly, and use if-then plans to handle the obstacles that usually stop you. A goal that stays in your head is a wish. A goal written down, with a date and a next step, is a plan. Research on how people actually change their behaviour keeps finding the same thing: people who write their goals down, check them regularly, and decide in advance what to do when things go wrong are far more likely to finish what they start. WRITE IT DOWN, THE PRACTICAL WAY - One goal at a time. 'Finish the solar course by 30 November' beats five vague wishes. - Make it checkable. You should be able to say 'done' or 'not done' — not 'I tried my best'. - Give it a date. A goal without a date quietly becomes 'someday'. - Write the very next small step. Not 'get a job' but 'message two hardware shops on Saturday morning'. - Keep it where you will see it — a notebook, a note on your phone, or paper on the wall. THE WEEKLY REVIEW — 15 MINUTES THAT CHANGE EVERYTHING Pick one fixed moment each week — Sunday evening works well for many people. Ask yourself three questions: What did I finish this week? What got in my way? What is my next step for the coming week? Write the answers down. This small habit catches problems while they are still small, and it reminds you that you are moving, even when progress feels slow. IF-THEN PLANS: DECIDE BEFORE THE OBSTACLE ARRIVES Most plans fail at the same predictable moments: the data bundle runs out, a friend invites you out on study night, rain cancels the job you planned. An if-then plan is a decision you make now, so a hard moment does not require willpower later. The format is simple: 'IF [obstacle happens], THEN I will [specific action].' - IF my data finishes, THEN I will study from my downloaded offline lessons instead. - IF it rains on the day I planned to visit shops, THEN I will call them instead and visit the next day. - IF I feel too tired to study at night, THEN I will do just 10 minutes — starting is the hard part. - IF a customer delays payment, THEN I will send one polite reminder after three days, not argue. [A note on visualisation] Imagining your goal can help — but picture the steps, not just the reward. Instead of only dreaming about the certificate on your wall, picture yourself opening the lesson, answering the quiz, and messaging the customer. Picturing the process prepares you; picturing only the prize can actually relax you into doing nothing. [Try this today] Write one goal with a date, then write two if-then plans for the obstacles most likely to stop you. Keep them somewhere you will see this week. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. What makes a goal 'checkable'? A) It is written in English B) You can clearly say whether it is done or not done C) Other people approve of it D) It is ambitious enough to impress people Answer: B — A checkable goal has a clear finish line: 'finish 8 lessons by Friday' can be marked done or not done. 'Do my best' cannot — and vague goals are easy to quietly abandon. 2. Your study night arrives and your data bundle has run out. What does a good if-then plan do? A) It forces you to buy more data immediately B) It tells you to skip studying until next week C) It gives you a decision you made in advance, like switching to your downloaded offline lessons D) It punishes you for not planning better Answer: C — An if-then plan removes the need for willpower in the moment: you decided earlier that IF data runs out, THEN you study offline. The decision is already made, so you just follow it. ---------------------------------------- Carpenter & Furniture Maker — Lesson 11: Introduce Yourself in 30 Seconds 8 min read OBJECTIVE: Prepare and practise a short, confident self-introduction you can use with employers, customers and new contacts. Many capable people miss opportunities because they freeze when someone asks 'So, what do you do?' A self-introduction is a short, prepared answer — about 30 seconds — that you have practised until it feels natural. It is not showing off. It is simply making it easy for people to understand how you can help them. THE THREE-PART SCRIPT - Who you are: your name and your trade or skill. 'My name is Amina. I am a trained pharmacy assistant.' - What you can do: one or two concrete things, with proof if you have it. 'I have completed training in dispensing support and stock management, and I helped in a busy pharmacy for three months.' - What you are looking for: say it clearly. 'I am looking for a position in a pharmacy or clinic in this area.' or 'I take catering orders for events of up to 100 people.' Put together, it sounds like this: 'Good morning, my name is Kofi. I am a solar technician — I have finished certified training in home solar installation, and I have already installed systems for three families in this town. I am looking for more customers, and I also do repairs and maintenance. Here is my number.' Thirty seconds, and the listener knows exactly what you offer. MAKE IT YOURS - Adjust the ending for the listener: a customer hears what you sell; an employer hears what job you want; a contact hears how they can help you. - Practise out loud, not in your head — say it to a friend, a mirror, or your phone's voice recorder, five times. - Keep it honest. A small true claim beats a big exaggerated one that falls apart at the first question. - End with a way to reach you: your number, your WhatsApp, or where your shop is. [For shy learners] Feeling nervous is normal and does not mean you are bad at this. Preparation is the cure: a practised script means you never have to invent sentences while nervous. Start by using it in low-pressure moments — with a neighbour, then a shopkeeper — before the big interview or the important customer. [Try this today] Write your three-part introduction in your notes, then say it out loud three times. Use it once this week with a real person. PRACTICE QUESTIONS 1. What are the three parts of a good 30-second introduction? A) Your family background, your education, your hobbies B) Who you are, what you can do, what you are looking for C) Your salary expectation, your location, your age D) Your problems, your needs, your complaints Answer: B — The script answers the three questions every listener has: who is this person, what can they do for me, and what do they want? Keep it short, honest and practised. 2. What is the best way to prepare your introduction? A) Memorise a long speech about your whole life B) Wait for inspiration in the moment C) Practise a short script out loud several times before you need it D) Copy someone else's introduction word for word Answer: C — Saying it out loud — to a friend, mirror or voice recorder — is what makes it feel natural under pressure. A short, honest, practised script beats both improvisation and a long memorised speech. ---------------------------------------- Get the full app: https://miva-skillsnav.lovable.app